Presented both physically and virtually in July 2020, the fine jewelry collections, which once again were dazzling, almost seemed to project themselves into this “afterworld” that we see as peaceful, authentic, and close to our roots.

Hémis platinium, opal, kunzite, pink and white diamond necklace by Cartier

Cartier: A quirky take on its past

First up, it’s Cartier with its (Sur)Naturel collection, revisiting its fauna and flora past in an out-of-the-ordinary way. First of all, the lascivious panther, often depicted leaping with striking realism and embracing a gemstone, is evoked here in the form of its spotted coat.It first appeared in a Cartier jewel in 1914, embedded into a watch.In the new collection, it reaches for the supernatural, both in volume and color on the Hémis necklace: superb randomly dotted blue opals represent the famous spotted fur.A central 71.80 carat kunzite illuminates this mosaic gem.
Elements of snakes and crocodiles also feature in this modernized bestiary.The Ophéis necklace evokes a cold-blooded reptile with its geometry of articulated scales.This typical 1930s style diamond and onyx jewel, whose head has almost 54 carats, also reminds us that Cartier was a major jeweler during the Art Deco period.

Rings from the Chaumet Perspectives collection

 Chaumet: in space and time

Architecture is the main inspiration of Chaumet, Perspectives collection, where six themes interpret movement, space, lines and curves. The Labyrinth theme combines circles and rectangles in a subtle harmony of tiered volumes.On these mirror-polished gold and stone surfaces, the light accentuates the velvety nuances of superb Burmese sapphires, padparadscha sapphires and even Colombian emeralds.In the Skyline collection, we can find the spirit of Pierre Sterlé, who designed for the House in the 1970s.The mirror-polished, openwork, engraved, hammered gold seen here is worked in sculptural curves and in clear angles on fine gold plates.In contrast to this style, the Lacis collection is simply amazing!A white gold mesh set with diamonds and made with a knife edge creates interlacing with undulating contours covering flamboyant rubellites.In this surprising collection that interprets all levels of architecture, Chaumet exhibits a magnificent expertise in its know-how.

Chaumet Labyrinthe white gold, agate, onyx, diamond and emerald ring

Van Cleef & Arpels was unable to present its new collection, but decided to breathe new life into its past through the reissue of a few pieces. The star of the show is the Princess Faiza of Egypt necklace, created in 1929.This historic masterpiece has been reinvented with even and rigorous geometry in the Merveille d’Émeraudes necklace, where 5 70 carat Colombian emeralds cascade in a deep and luminous green.

Van Cleef & Arpels Merveille d’Emeraudes white gold, emerald and diamond necklace

Another revamped piece from the brand’s past is the Rubis en Scène bracelet made up of two semicircles of different diameters emblazoned with 72 rubies (nearly 85 carats). This gem is a tribute to the bracelet Jarretière (which means garter) acquired by Marlene Dietrich in 1937.

One of them holds a tassel of cultured turquoise and malachite pearls, inside which a miniature secret watch is hidden. Reminiscent of one of the House’s most extraordinary collections, Le Secret – 2017, is a wonder of jewelery complexity.

Boucheron, Piaget: playing with air and fire

There was a surprise at Boucheron, where inventing new materials, and scanning, modeling, encapsulating diamonds and materials  has been the main focus for a few years. In a collection that gazes towards the sky, the pieces are surprising and offbeat, such as the Nuage en Apesanteur necklace, a sparkling cumulus cloud made up of thousands of diamonds and random glass balls mounted in a shaker. First designed in cotton, the necklace was then scanned and modeled in titanium, which is typical of the inventiveness of the brand’s artistic director, Claire Choisne.

Boucheron Nuage en Pesanteur titanium, glass bead and diamond necklace

But this one surprises us even more with the Goutte de Ciel necklace, where pieces of airgel (air and silica) are encapsulated in rock crystal cabochons. The resulting large pale blue drops reminiscent of chalcedony, are stunning.

Also very inspired by the sky, its magical, changing colors, and the poetry of flight, Maison Piaget continues its quest for light with Wings of Light. The marine indigo, turquoise azure or setting sun skies seem to reflect on the elements of nature, bird wings, leaves and flowers that are available throughout the collection. Rainbow stones, which are often marquise, oval or pear shaped, give the creations a slender look.They are combined with patchwork of feathers, wood and leather in vibrant colors.On the Rainbow Light bracelet, pink gold is engraved with the famous Palace decor, which Piaget holds so dear.It is set ablaze by a patchwork of precious wood, leather and mother-of-pearl.In the center, a flamboyant cushion rubellite of nearly 23 carats echoes the rosy red tones of the wood and leather.Superb.

We would like to congratulate the fine jewelry workshops which, despite the lockdown, have achieved wonders so that dreams and beauty are always at the forefront, stronger than reality.

Piaget Wings of Light white gold, diamond and ruby ring

Home page: Chaumet Ondulation necklace in gold and indigolite tourmaline

Isabelle Hossenlopp – L’OFFICIEL Watchmaking & Jewellery Publication September 2020

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